Surfing through midlife.
Thanks to Sari for publishing my essay and to all those who've read & commented! Always try something new at any age. <3
This is fabulous, and while I am not near the ocean (and don't know how to swim) your essay has reminded me of my desire to welcome new joys into my life.
You are awesome! I have always been an ocean person. My 14 yo grandson lives on the mid Atlantic Ocean and surfs year round, even in 40 degree water!. He tried to teach me but as I told him at 74, popping up fast isn’t happening. So I get on his boogie boards or a do an open water swim and just hang out in the sea while he surfs. When he was 3, he told me “Mimi the ocean is my habitat!”
Glad she took to the board. Not too late.
I have a secret yen to surf in 2 years, when I turn 60. This is a fabulous piece—-thank you.
Really enjoyed this piece, Liza. I'm a mountain biker, not a surfer, but I identified with much of what you've written here, especially this line: "Does every writer who moves out of a metropolis and into a place surrounded by nature pick up a nature-related hobby, realize its wonders, and proceed to write about it endlessly?" That is me!! :-)
Here's to finding new hobbies and passions in middle-age!
Great essay, Liza. I had long board when I was teenager at the Jersey Shore in the 60s but I had a bad wipe out and got scared. I wish someone had encouraged me to get back on the board. And very few girls were surfing then. Now I'm jealous when I see my grand nieces and grand nephews out there surfing.