Veteran beauty editor Val Monroe shares five basic things you should know about your skin. Plus, an Open Thread where you can share you skin-saving secrets...
I follow Val pretty religiously, and I'm so happy you featured her. One thing you did not mention is that, unlike almost every other beauty/fashion blogger/substacker, she makes NO money from her recommendations. So you can really trust her to be objective. Sari, PLEASE wear sunscreen. I'm two weeks shy of 60. In the morning a rinse my face with water, rub in SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic serum (every dermatologist has told me to use it for 20 years. It's expensive but one bottle lasts 6 months), Vanicream moisturizer (a recent discovery that is AMAZING and cheap), and Elta sunscreen. At night, Cetaphil Exfoliating SA Cleanser (as recommended by Val), generic Retin A .5% prescribed by my dermatologist (a tube lasts two years), and an expensive night cream (Sente) recommended by my dermatologist. That night cream is the only thing that I think is more buck than bang.
Thank you for pointing out that she makes no paid endorsements. I am sick of MD influencers who are compromised by conflicts of interest…. Including our new surgeon general nominee.
I am 86 and about 30 (or more) years ago I had a chemical peel...ugh! lots of work...but it really worked. I did it because I often appeared on TV as a classical singer with orchestra. The first time I saw myself on TV I was singing a special program at the Russian Embassy in D.C., and I went straight to somebody who could make me look better. I have good genes, and now I just wear Roc sunscreen or a light make-up (I like BB cream) that has sunscreen in it. That's it, now. I thought I was done with all that TV stuff, but now I'm appearing on a huge screen in Taiwan this month as keynote speaker in an International Symposium of Vocal Art. I'll just have to show up as an 86-ear-old. That's who I am, and I have to accept it.
First, I'm a huge fan of Val Monroe's newsletter, along with yours. But Sari - if NOTHING else, please start using sunscreen! As a veteran of skin cancer, I'm telling you this is no joke, and it's not so much about beauty as it is about health.
As to routine: AM - just a splash of water and then Neutrogena moisturizer with sunscreen. PM-wash with Cetaphil gentle formula, Trader Joe's Retinol every other night, and CeRave night cream. All over-the counter and pretty simple.
we are all wanting you to be around for a lot lot longer, think of the chastising that way. And if you're a one-step person (I am) try something like a Peter Thomas Roth moisturizer with 30SPF. easypeasy
I found a bottle if Cetaphil cleanser way in the back of the foofoo cupboard; the ingredient list had three different parabens! Whoa! Yuk! It’s so old I don’t remember where it came from. When my cousin passed five+ years ago after having it for ten?
It’s important to keep in mind that cosmetics have a lifespan like condiments.
As we learn more over time, ingredients are updated! Our FDA has lagged so far behind on toxics in cosmetic for decades and I doubt it will improve much for a few years either.
When in doubt, throw it out.
When shopping for sunscreens I am following Hawaiian standards. If all those Oxy benzenes etc can kill fish diluted in ocean water, I sure don’t want them on my face! Sunscreens turn my eyes into raw hamburger if they get in! I’ve had entire vacations in hot places utterly ruined by them. Only found one, a stick from Neutrogena, that doesn’t migrate. They must be removed before you sleep, smearing them all over your pillow.
Although anything that actually affects the dermis is technically a medication and sold that way, many of these products do enter our mouths and lungs via physical avenues.
Read labels.
My dad had to go on immune suppressants after a kidney transplant. He had been outdoors a lot and started to get huge skin cancers in the most exposed places, like wrists and ears. It was remarkable how much his immune system had been doing for him previously. Gave me an entire new gratitude for the things our bodies quietly do 24/7/365.
I never had more than a haphazard a “skin care routine” but I wear sunscreen because skin cancer runs in my fair-skinned family. But over the past ten years I’ve developed allergic and contact dermatitis which affects my eyelids (very much) as well as the rest of my face. I finally got a patch test (80 patches) from allergist (I’ve had the scratch test and get monthly allergy shots and use tacrolimus ointment which has stopped working.) The results are that I’m sensitive to three ingredients. One is unpronounceable and the other two are very common, naturally derived ingredients: balsam of Peru (lovely name) and propolis (a resinous substance made by bees.) So my question for “natural” products put me in the wrong direction!
The SkinSafe app, which screens products according to your sensitivities and allergies, has informed me that all the natural skincare products I got from my coop, as well as the Cetaphil lotions are off limits— including everything from Dr. Brommer, Aesops, all of my sunscreens, etc. Quite a revelation, and counterintuitive. I don’t know if being constantly irritated has aged my skin— I just want it to stop burning. I’m giving away all my lovely scented products to my daughters.
If you haven’t had a patch test, I recommend it! It does mean having 80 patches stuck on your back under Tegaderm and not showering for a week (!) But worth it for the info. (Plus, you can do sponge baths and not alienate all friends and neighbors.) The app is good because the ingredients lists on products can use myriad names for the same thing. And the labels are so hard to read, low contrast and 4-point type.
Cannabis herb and other resinous herbs like paprika
And the last few years: some kind of spring pollen ☄️☄️
If I can’t make it stop with B&L Optcon A drops that I also distribute on eyelids, I will make a 1/2 cup of pure chamomile tea and put that on cotton pads on my eyes. Completely soothes after about 30 minutes (which is torture to sit still so long for ADD me!🤪) I got smart this week and made a bunch in layers of cooking paper for the freezer. Next time I’m making fists to not scratch my eyes out, I will be ready!
Thank you for the recommendation. The app says that the black facial soap contains Balsam of Peru and propolis So no go for me. I am not seeing any of their other products rated in SkinSafe. It is possible ask the company to analyze products they have not already evaluated. I’ve done that with a few products that I have and was very impressed at how quickly they got back to me.
Karen, the doctor who founded Osmia also has a Substack. She's very smart and responsive. You can find her here if you have questions: https://sarahvillafranco.substack.com/
I'm the poet who makes the Glow Juice, and Sari, I feel you about maybe needing a few more tricks at age 57. I have never spent much time on my skin and did develop Glow Juice at around 45 as a sort of "everything in one bottle" recipe, but am intrigued by this "plumping" possibility in Retinol. I do want to tell you and everyone that Glow Juice makes a good make-up remover as well as a soothing/conditioning light moisture spray for all skin---it does not irritate eyes! The remover you mention is basically petroleum products, which are not ideal. Love Oldster and your hide.
Thanks, Rebecca. I did not know I could use Glow Juice as a makeup remover, and will ditch my Albolene stat! I love Glow Juice and your hide. (I'll keep using it because I love it! But I'll also add some other stuff.) xox
Thanks for this great, no-nonsense article about skin care.
I turned 69 in February and started washing my face. Until this year, I never had a “skincare routine.” But I didn’t like what I was seeing in the magnifying mirror: a web of fine lines and some dark spots that gave me a moustache. One friend suggested I just get rid of the mirror. My beautiful daughters had me try some of their products and recommended a facial.
I succumbed to purchasing some products with ambivalence. I’d like to live as if what I look like isn’t as important as the state of the world. So, with every purchase of an appearance enhancing potion, I make a matching donation to a local good cause, like CASP – Community Asylum Seekers Project, which helps resettle Afghans who’ve moved to southern Vermont.
I wash my face with either Aveda’s Purifying Crème Cleanser or with the facial soap shaped like a bear from the hotel in Yellowstone National Park. When the fancy Aveda runs out, I’ll replace it with glycerin soap from my local coop.
After washing, I have morning and nighttime routines. In the morning, I use Derma-E Vitamin C Concentrated Serum with hyaluronic acid followed by sunscreen and/or moisturizer. I never know which to put on first, or if to skip the moisturizer if I’m using sunscreen. Anyone have guidance on this?
For moisturizer, I’m currently using Cerave Moisturizing Cream (recommended by Wirecutter) or Derma-E Ultra Hydrating Antioxidant Day Cream because I can buy it at the Coop. The Cerave is much less expensive; the Derma-E feels a little nicer. I have no product loyalty regarding sunscreen and have a variety of them, lighter sunscreen when I’m not outside, and sunblock with zinc and/or titanium oxide for real protection against sun exposure when I’m outdoors for extended periods of time.
At night, I have two routines. Most nights, I’ve been using Aveda Tulasara Brightening Eye Masque. A half-ounce jar has lasted me six months so far and has maybe made a difference, but I don’t think I’ll replace it. I might try something else. For the rest of my face, I use the Derma- Ultra Hydrating Advance Repair Night Cream or the Cerave. Every third night, I’ve been using Retinal 0.2% emulsion from The Ordinary. This has definitely lightened my dark spots and improved the webby wrinkles. I’m amazed. It costs $14 a vial and lasts about three months.
Having come of age at the end of the hairy-no-bra 1960’s, this kind of skin care doesn’t come naturally. But I have a book coming out in November (more on that soon!) and want to look my best for the scrutinizing public. Yeesh.
But when we think about skin care and appearance, we need also to mention health habits that make a difference: Good diet with some fat, and hydration with limited caffeine and alcohol. Exercise matters, good sleep habits, and care for our mental health.
Thanks, Deborah. And I love that you match your purchases with donations. I think you’re right about the need for a more holistic approach to skin care that also considers diet, exercise and more.
This particular newsletter is the happiest blend of two fabulous newsletterists and what a treat! And as others have said, the fact that Val doesn't get paid for recommendations makes it even better. I'm 61 & started wearing moisturizer w/suncreen 11 years ago when I was living in the Arabian Gulf: blistering hot year-round sun. Micellar water to clean skin, or Tatcha lightly exfolitating scrub (smells delicious, v gentle); got my first-ever facial yesterday, wildly expensive but I might be in love the woman who gave it to me b/c she was so clear & gentle & didn't try to upsell me on *anything* (when your products run out, ask my suggestions, she said). And today my skin feels a decade younger. Sadly, the older I get the more Im willing to pay for products. Aging is for me an expensive ratio. LOVE Tatcha, Nuxe, and Avene.
As a 55-year-old who has also spent decades writing about skin, I'm so sad for myself that I never thought to call it "your one precious meat suit." Genius as always, Val. In my first week on the job as a beauty assistant at Mirabella magazine of blessed memory, I was sent to the New York Public Library to rifle through microfiche imagery of melanomas, so if I hadn't already had a healthy fear of skin cancer (and I did), those photos would have done the trick. So, other than in caves, I wear an SPF of at least 30 indoors and out. These days, Solara Fortune Teller Tinted Brightening Serum is a particular favorite for its bonus complexion-evening abilities. At night, I use a rotation of retinoids and retinols and vats of rich moisturizer. I have yet to find a cream from an adult skincare line that's as soothing as Evereden Nourishing Baby Face Cream, though I'm always on the hunt. And every few years, I get fraxeled and/or peeled at the derm's office.
Awww. So glad to find a Mirabella fan here! And a Fraxel is a kind of laser that can help curb a bit of the world-weariness on one’s face (and chest, hands, etc.) without obliterating the surface and requiring much downtime, the way stronger lasers can.
By the way I used Trader Joe's sunscreen. It's smooth and doesn't leave a white cast on my face and it feels like primer so it's easy to use makeup over it.
Sari, I feel you on the sunscreen!! Despite knowing I should wear it on my face everyday, it's been really hard for me to actually... do it. I do wear it in the summer/at the beach, etc, but since I never burn, I probably don't re-apply as much as I should (unlike my very fair-skinned husband, who is religious about re-applying because he gets immediate negative results!) I realized one of the pain points for me was how much you had to massage the sunscreen into your face to blend it in, esp since I am more melanated. I recently found the Versed Guards Up Daily Mineral Sunscreen which is a brown/orangey color (at my Marshalls for maybe $6), and for my East Asian skin, it blends in quickly and this makes putting it on better. Good luck to both of us on our increased sunscreen-ing!
I'm 36-- I didn't start having any sort of skincare routine until around 33, when my skin started getting patchy with tiny bumps all the time. It turns out it is a reaction to the Chicago hard water, which I discovered when on vacation/trips my skin would clear up. I tried out a bunch of stuff and landed on the Farmacy Honey Halo moisturizer in the morning and the Farmacy Niacinimide cream at night. It's pricey ($45!!) but I wait to shop for sales, and each one lasts for about six-seven months. If my skin wasn't so cranky, I would definitely go with a cheaper option. I only cleanse my face every two or three days with Farmacy's Green Clean cleansing balm, and I use filtered water my husband brings home from work for me just for this purpose, lol. I recently added Farmacy's retinol which I use maybe once a week when I remember.
This makes my face *better* but still not as good as if I lived somewhere without this water. We installed a water softener filter, but the only way it gets really good is if I wear this ludicrous plastic face mask when I shower so no water hits my face at all. This usually is not worth it for me for the hassle!
Thanks, Jami. I should add that I *do* hide myself from the sun on the beach, these days. I sit under an umbrella, wear a hat and coverup. But I should still wear sunscreen. And in my childhood and young adulthood, I didn't hide myself from the sun on the beach. (I'm from Long Beach, NY, and grew up on the beach.) Also, if it's any consolation, I didn't start moisturizing at all until like my late 40s or early 50s...
At 75, I use moisturizer with sunscreen (Vichy or Neostrata, spf 30) every day of the year and have done so for about 40 years. I always wear a hat with a wide brim, as a style statement that doubles as sun protection. I inherited good skin from my mother, but so did my younger sister, who doesn’t follow these practices and whose skin told the story. The other day on Substack, a British beauty writer (sorry, forget the name) published a contrarian but convincing argument that those of us in northern climates do not need daily sunscreen. Her source was a skin scientist (as opposed to dermatologist) who is a firm advocate for hats. His argument gave me pause, but I am not about to change an affordable routine that appears to be working. For a good while,I bought retinol-based products from a dermatologist, but gave them up because of the price.
My niece manages a medical spa so I have a routine with Skin medica that I love. I used Retin-A every other day and every four months micro-needling treatment. I'm 49 and happy with my skin appearance. I stay hydrated and don't consume much alcohol and I eat a whole food plant based diet.
If I am cocooning (seems like a lazy winter response) and don’t get my usual slate of fresh vegetables and fruits, I can really see it in my skin. I feel crappier too.
Just started following Val rn! I’m a few months shy of 56 and have had skin cancer more times than I can count including melanoma twice. I have a terrible scar on my face from a basal cell that I let go far too long. SUNSCREEN!!!! I use Elta MD tinted sunscreen in the AM. I rotate retinol/Vit C serum most nights or a deep moisturizing mask that I’ll leave on all night. I’ve been getting chemical peels since my 30’s and just recently incorporated micro needling. I rotate one of those treatments every 4 months. I have a few wrinkles but I’m told I look about 10 years younger than my age. The aggressive skin care treatments also slough off precancerous spots so that’s a win too.
Sari, I just finished ‘And You May Find Yourself” last night and I really enjoyed getting to know you better! 💜
Hi there - I go to my dermatologist. Over the years I’ve had different peels; glycolic, lactic, etc.. now I get Jessner or rejuvenating peels that they offer. I’m sorry I don’t know really what that is. But I can say, the results are fantastic. The peels literally take years off my face. You’re going to look like a molting lizard for about a week but it’s worth it. The downtime is less with micro needling, about 3-4 days.
I live in Italy but my family is in California, where my niece works at a med spa so I get micro-needling or peels there so when I get back and people ask about my lizard skin I'm like "That California sun!! Oopsie!!"
I'm a few months shy of 35 years old, and I just started using retinol about six months ago (Marie Veronique gentle night serum), plus a face oil. So: a gentle cleanser and those two at night, just a rinse and sunscreen in the morning. But thanks to my mom (we are very fair and she has been drilling WEAR SUNSCREEN into me since my childhood in the 90s!), I have been on the sunscreen-every-day boat for at least a decade already. My go-to is the Elta MD tinted one, but I've also liked Laroche-Posay and Supergoop.
I'm a bit of a sun bug and loooove to lie out on the beach, but I live in the Northeast and it's not like I'm doing it every day/year-round, so I balance my joy in that with the risk. And of course I always wear sunscreen!! That said, my mom has had growths removed (in her 60s) so I expect that's my future as well; nothing beats genetics...
I can see my face aging, but I'm happy with looking my age, and I'm just counting on establishing this routine to pay off a couple decades down the road. The most annoying thing about my mid-30s skin is that I still get pimples and whiteheads! So rude — pop culture always taught me this was for teenagers.
As a retired esthetician (‘82-‘93) who specialized in acne, two thoughts:
Most adult acne comes from odd food sensitivities. Does your skin clear up when you have the flu and don’t eat? For me it’s the processed soy and peanuts that I had every bloody day as a kid. For others it’s dairy or some other perfectly delicious food. (Occasionally it’s something else, like a filthy shared phone at a store cosmetic counter, or one gal’s husband’s oily shoulder every night! Awwww)
Even at 70 I can still get a classic pimple if I eat those two things too frequently. Finally, indulging occasionally is OK. 👅
There’s information out there on how to do food sensitivity tests. They are tedious and time consuming, but for me the information was really priceless. Make choices from there.
One thing I also get real results from is using Neutrogena Clear Pore as a cleanser with a facial brush.
Benzoyl peroxide works by getting the dead cells and sebum that accumulate in the pores to dissolve that bit of ‘glue’ and slough off. The gentle brush is exfoliating, exposing younger and more hydrated cells which reflect more light. Start easy with BP products and NOT near eyes.
Now that my mature thin skin is not oily, I find the pores clog even more bc I am not constantly washing my face and they just build up. It’s It’s a different animal entirely.
THANK YOU TO ALL COMMENTSTERS! You inspire me to get with it again. Does anybody else just start slacking off from distractions or stress?
As a lifelong skincare product obsessive, you have hit me where I live. I, too, follow Val, though the no sunscreen thing sends me spinning. I had my first facial at the original Mario Badescu office in Manhattan at age 12 (blackheads were unacceptable in my mother's book), so I was indoctrinated early.
I highly recommend looking at Beauty Pie, a membership site that offers quality skincare at reduced prices (founded by entrepreneur extraordinaire Marcia Kilgore).
My morning routine now includes a custom compound serum that contains estradiol (my skin is soft and hydrated like when I was in my 20s), CoQ10, and Vit. C. If I feel dry, I use Beauty Pie's Healthy Skin daily moisturizer (no scent) and top that with Ulta UV Daily SPF 40. Alternatively, I'll use HaruHaru Wonder (SPF50).
On no or light makeup days, I wash at night with La Roche-Posay Toleraine Purifying Foaming Cleanser. If I have stubborn makeup on, I first use Beauty Pie's Hot Oil Double Cleansing Balm (you put the thick balm on dry skin, massage it in, wet it, and then clean it off with a wet face cloth). My skin is then clean and soft, and somehow, any blackheads are dissolved by the oils. It's kind of magic. I alternate between OTC retinol and a DNA serum with moisturizer on top. I am a big fan of Kate Sommerville's Peptide Cream, too.
I also like an annual laser treatment (IPL or Clear and Bright).
I respect those who can go with the flow and let nature take its course. I am not one of those gals.
Hey, Everyone. Val and I are going to talk more about this in a Substack Live next Tuesday, 5/13 at 3pm. Join us! https://open.substack.com/live-stream/27852?r=53wg&utm_medium=ios
Can't wait! xo
I follow Val pretty religiously, and I'm so happy you featured her. One thing you did not mention is that, unlike almost every other beauty/fashion blogger/substacker, she makes NO money from her recommendations. So you can really trust her to be objective. Sari, PLEASE wear sunscreen. I'm two weeks shy of 60. In the morning a rinse my face with water, rub in SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic serum (every dermatologist has told me to use it for 20 years. It's expensive but one bottle lasts 6 months), Vanicream moisturizer (a recent discovery that is AMAZING and cheap), and Elta sunscreen. At night, Cetaphil Exfoliating SA Cleanser (as recommended by Val), generic Retin A .5% prescribed by my dermatologist (a tube lasts two years), and an expensive night cream (Sente) recommended by my dermatologist. That night cream is the only thing that I think is more buck than bang.
Oh, yes, that adds to Val's credibility for sure! And you're right. I'll check out Elta. Thanks for sharing your routine here, Jan!
Thank you for pointing out that she makes no paid endorsements. I am sick of MD influencers who are compromised by conflicts of interest…. Including our new surgeon general nominee.
Thank you, Jan! xo
I am 86 and about 30 (or more) years ago I had a chemical peel...ugh! lots of work...but it really worked. I did it because I often appeared on TV as a classical singer with orchestra. The first time I saw myself on TV I was singing a special program at the Russian Embassy in D.C., and I went straight to somebody who could make me look better. I have good genes, and now I just wear Roc sunscreen or a light make-up (I like BB cream) that has sunscreen in it. That's it, now. I thought I was done with all that TV stuff, but now I'm appearing on a huge screen in Taiwan this month as keynote speaker in an International Symposium of Vocal Art. I'll just have to show up as an 86-ear-old. That's who I am, and I have to accept it.
Marianna — good luck with your keynote; I love your attitude! xo
First, I'm a huge fan of Val Monroe's newsletter, along with yours. But Sari - if NOTHING else, please start using sunscreen! As a veteran of skin cancer, I'm telling you this is no joke, and it's not so much about beauty as it is about health.
As to routine: AM - just a splash of water and then Neutrogena moisturizer with sunscreen. PM-wash with Cetaphil gentle formula, Trader Joe's Retinol every other night, and CeRave night cream. All over-the counter and pretty simple.
I'm going to get on it, Kate. Thanks for chiming in!
Might be good idea to do that before next week, bc I plan on our live intvu to scold the heck out of you re: no sunscreen. xo
we are all wanting you to be around for a lot lot longer, think of the chastising that way. And if you're a one-step person (I am) try something like a Peter Thomas Roth moisturizer with 30SPF. easypeasy
I found a bottle if Cetaphil cleanser way in the back of the foofoo cupboard; the ingredient list had three different parabens! Whoa! Yuk! It’s so old I don’t remember where it came from. When my cousin passed five+ years ago after having it for ten?
It’s important to keep in mind that cosmetics have a lifespan like condiments.
As we learn more over time, ingredients are updated! Our FDA has lagged so far behind on toxics in cosmetic for decades and I doubt it will improve much for a few years either.
When in doubt, throw it out.
When shopping for sunscreens I am following Hawaiian standards. If all those Oxy benzenes etc can kill fish diluted in ocean water, I sure don’t want them on my face! Sunscreens turn my eyes into raw hamburger if they get in! I’ve had entire vacations in hot places utterly ruined by them. Only found one, a stick from Neutrogena, that doesn’t migrate. They must be removed before you sleep, smearing them all over your pillow.
Although anything that actually affects the dermis is technically a medication and sold that way, many of these products do enter our mouths and lungs via physical avenues.
Read labels.
My dad had to go on immune suppressants after a kidney transplant. He had been outdoors a lot and started to get huge skin cancers in the most exposed places, like wrists and ears. It was remarkable how much his immune system had been doing for him previously. Gave me an entire new gratitude for the things our bodies quietly do 24/7/365.
Kate! Thank you! xo
I never had more than a haphazard a “skin care routine” but I wear sunscreen because skin cancer runs in my fair-skinned family. But over the past ten years I’ve developed allergic and contact dermatitis which affects my eyelids (very much) as well as the rest of my face. I finally got a patch test (80 patches) from allergist (I’ve had the scratch test and get monthly allergy shots and use tacrolimus ointment which has stopped working.) The results are that I’m sensitive to three ingredients. One is unpronounceable and the other two are very common, naturally derived ingredients: balsam of Peru (lovely name) and propolis (a resinous substance made by bees.) So my question for “natural” products put me in the wrong direction!
The SkinSafe app, which screens products according to your sensitivities and allergies, has informed me that all the natural skincare products I got from my coop, as well as the Cetaphil lotions are off limits— including everything from Dr. Brommer, Aesops, all of my sunscreens, etc. Quite a revelation, and counterintuitive. I don’t know if being constantly irritated has aged my skin— I just want it to stop burning. I’m giving away all my lovely scented products to my daughters.
I am allergic to so many things! And I get contact dermatitis a lot. I'll check out the SkinSafe app. Thank you!
If you haven’t had a patch test, I recommend it! It does mean having 80 patches stuck on your back under Tegaderm and not showering for a week (!) But worth it for the info. (Plus, you can do sponge baths and not alienate all friends and neighbors.) The app is good because the ingredients lists on products can use myriad names for the same thing. And the labels are so hard to read, low contrast and 4-point type.
I'll look into it!
Oh, no. I have suffered from contacr dermatitis. My eyelids are itching at the thought.
Same. The main culprits are Newsprint ink
Sunscreens
Cannabis herb and other resinous herbs like paprika
And the last few years: some kind of spring pollen ☄️☄️
If I can’t make it stop with B&L Optcon A drops that I also distribute on eyelids, I will make a 1/2 cup of pure chamomile tea and put that on cotton pads on my eyes. Completely soothes after about 30 minutes (which is torture to sit still so long for ADD me!🤪) I got smart this week and made a bunch in layers of cooking paper for the freezer. Next time I’m making fists to not scratch my eyes out, I will be ready!
🔥🔥 👁👁 🔥🔥
Karen, please have a look at the Osmia skincare line. https://osmiaskincare.com/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Search_Brand&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21662217578&gclid=CjwKCAjwz_bABhAGEiwAm-P8Ydn95uZD7Dy2fn2XvN-jagC21-N0XumbufLoeStR_pV-sT5dQL7YCxoCtTkQAvD_BwE
Thank you for the recommendation. The app says that the black facial soap contains Balsam of Peru and propolis So no go for me. I am not seeing any of their other products rated in SkinSafe. It is possible ask the company to analyze products they have not already evaluated. I’ve done that with a few products that I have and was very impressed at how quickly they got back to me.
Karen, the doctor who founded Osmia also has a Substack. She's very smart and responsive. You can find her here if you have questions: https://sarahvillafranco.substack.com/
Thanks!!
I'm the poet who makes the Glow Juice, and Sari, I feel you about maybe needing a few more tricks at age 57. I have never spent much time on my skin and did develop Glow Juice at around 45 as a sort of "everything in one bottle" recipe, but am intrigued by this "plumping" possibility in Retinol. I do want to tell you and everyone that Glow Juice makes a good make-up remover as well as a soothing/conditioning light moisture spray for all skin---it does not irritate eyes! The remover you mention is basically petroleum products, which are not ideal. Love Oldster and your hide.
Thanks, Rebecca. I did not know I could use Glow Juice as a makeup remover, and will ditch my Albolene stat! I love Glow Juice and your hide. (I'll keep using it because I love it! But I'll also add some other stuff.) xox
Thanks for this great, no-nonsense article about skin care.
I turned 69 in February and started washing my face. Until this year, I never had a “skincare routine.” But I didn’t like what I was seeing in the magnifying mirror: a web of fine lines and some dark spots that gave me a moustache. One friend suggested I just get rid of the mirror. My beautiful daughters had me try some of their products and recommended a facial.
I succumbed to purchasing some products with ambivalence. I’d like to live as if what I look like isn’t as important as the state of the world. So, with every purchase of an appearance enhancing potion, I make a matching donation to a local good cause, like CASP – Community Asylum Seekers Project, which helps resettle Afghans who’ve moved to southern Vermont.
I wash my face with either Aveda’s Purifying Crème Cleanser or with the facial soap shaped like a bear from the hotel in Yellowstone National Park. When the fancy Aveda runs out, I’ll replace it with glycerin soap from my local coop.
After washing, I have morning and nighttime routines. In the morning, I use Derma-E Vitamin C Concentrated Serum with hyaluronic acid followed by sunscreen and/or moisturizer. I never know which to put on first, or if to skip the moisturizer if I’m using sunscreen. Anyone have guidance on this?
For moisturizer, I’m currently using Cerave Moisturizing Cream (recommended by Wirecutter) or Derma-E Ultra Hydrating Antioxidant Day Cream because I can buy it at the Coop. The Cerave is much less expensive; the Derma-E feels a little nicer. I have no product loyalty regarding sunscreen and have a variety of them, lighter sunscreen when I’m not outside, and sunblock with zinc and/or titanium oxide for real protection against sun exposure when I’m outdoors for extended periods of time.
At night, I have two routines. Most nights, I’ve been using Aveda Tulasara Brightening Eye Masque. A half-ounce jar has lasted me six months so far and has maybe made a difference, but I don’t think I’ll replace it. I might try something else. For the rest of my face, I use the Derma- Ultra Hydrating Advance Repair Night Cream or the Cerave. Every third night, I’ve been using Retinal 0.2% emulsion from The Ordinary. This has definitely lightened my dark spots and improved the webby wrinkles. I’m amazed. It costs $14 a vial and lasts about three months.
Having come of age at the end of the hairy-no-bra 1960’s, this kind of skin care doesn’t come naturally. But I have a book coming out in November (more on that soon!) and want to look my best for the scrutinizing public. Yeesh.
But when we think about skin care and appearance, we need also to mention health habits that make a difference: Good diet with some fat, and hydration with limited caffeine and alcohol. Exercise matters, good sleep habits, and care for our mental health.
Thanks, Deborah. And I love that you match your purchases with donations. I think you’re right about the need for a more holistic approach to skin care that also considers diet, exercise and more.
This particular newsletter is the happiest blend of two fabulous newsletterists and what a treat! And as others have said, the fact that Val doesn't get paid for recommendations makes it even better. I'm 61 & started wearing moisturizer w/suncreen 11 years ago when I was living in the Arabian Gulf: blistering hot year-round sun. Micellar water to clean skin, or Tatcha lightly exfolitating scrub (smells delicious, v gentle); got my first-ever facial yesterday, wildly expensive but I might be in love the woman who gave it to me b/c she was so clear & gentle & didn't try to upsell me on *anything* (when your products run out, ask my suggestions, she said). And today my skin feels a decade younger. Sadly, the older I get the more Im willing to pay for products. Aging is for me an expensive ratio. LOVE Tatcha, Nuxe, and Avene.
<3
“Aging is an expensive ratio” - I feel seen! hahaha ❤️
Love Tatcha too!
smells so good! Love their stuff and wish they had a sunscreen/moisturizer combo but I don't think they do
oh wait! they DO.... ahah
It's one of the only scented products I can use, and yes, they smell divine.
As a 55-year-old who has also spent decades writing about skin, I'm so sad for myself that I never thought to call it "your one precious meat suit." Genius as always, Val. In my first week on the job as a beauty assistant at Mirabella magazine of blessed memory, I was sent to the New York Public Library to rifle through microfiche imagery of melanomas, so if I hadn't already had a healthy fear of skin cancer (and I did), those photos would have done the trick. So, other than in caves, I wear an SPF of at least 30 indoors and out. These days, Solara Fortune Teller Tinted Brightening Serum is a particular favorite for its bonus complexion-evening abilities. At night, I use a rotation of retinoids and retinols and vats of rich moisturizer. I have yet to find a cream from an adult skincare line that's as soothing as Evereden Nourishing Baby Face Cream, though I'm always on the hunt. And every few years, I get fraxeled and/or peeled at the derm's office.
I really loved that comedic ode to Mary Oliver… Thanks for sharing, Abbie.
I loved Mirabella!!
It was one of the best!
MIRABELLA! Long may its memory live. Loved it. What is um...fraxeled?
Awww. So glad to find a Mirabella fan here! And a Fraxel is a kind of laser that can help curb a bit of the world-weariness on one’s face (and chest, hands, etc.) without obliterating the surface and requiring much downtime, the way stronger lasers can.
Thanks, as always, Abbie! xo
Thank *you*! xo
By the way I used Trader Joe's sunscreen. It's smooth and doesn't leave a white cast on my face and it feels like primer so it's easy to use makeup over it.
Thanks for the rec!
Sari, I feel you on the sunscreen!! Despite knowing I should wear it on my face everyday, it's been really hard for me to actually... do it. I do wear it in the summer/at the beach, etc, but since I never burn, I probably don't re-apply as much as I should (unlike my very fair-skinned husband, who is religious about re-applying because he gets immediate negative results!) I realized one of the pain points for me was how much you had to massage the sunscreen into your face to blend it in, esp since I am more melanated. I recently found the Versed Guards Up Daily Mineral Sunscreen which is a brown/orangey color (at my Marshalls for maybe $6), and for my East Asian skin, it blends in quickly and this makes putting it on better. Good luck to both of us on our increased sunscreen-ing!
I'm 36-- I didn't start having any sort of skincare routine until around 33, when my skin started getting patchy with tiny bumps all the time. It turns out it is a reaction to the Chicago hard water, which I discovered when on vacation/trips my skin would clear up. I tried out a bunch of stuff and landed on the Farmacy Honey Halo moisturizer in the morning and the Farmacy Niacinimide cream at night. It's pricey ($45!!) but I wait to shop for sales, and each one lasts for about six-seven months. If my skin wasn't so cranky, I would definitely go with a cheaper option. I only cleanse my face every two or three days with Farmacy's Green Clean cleansing balm, and I use filtered water my husband brings home from work for me just for this purpose, lol. I recently added Farmacy's retinol which I use maybe once a week when I remember.
This makes my face *better* but still not as good as if I lived somewhere without this water. We installed a water softener filter, but the only way it gets really good is if I wear this ludicrous plastic face mask when I shower so no water hits my face at all. This usually is not worth it for me for the hassle!
Thanks, Jami. I should add that I *do* hide myself from the sun on the beach, these days. I sit under an umbrella, wear a hat and coverup. But I should still wear sunscreen. And in my childhood and young adulthood, I didn't hide myself from the sun on the beach. (I'm from Long Beach, NY, and grew up on the beach.) Also, if it's any consolation, I didn't start moisturizing at all until like my late 40s or early 50s...
Tinfoil wrapped album cover to make sure the sun got into EVERY nook and cranny, aided by baby oil. which was also my moisturizer. ah youth
Ugh, yes, remember that. xo
At 75, I use moisturizer with sunscreen (Vichy or Neostrata, spf 30) every day of the year and have done so for about 40 years. I always wear a hat with a wide brim, as a style statement that doubles as sun protection. I inherited good skin from my mother, but so did my younger sister, who doesn’t follow these practices and whose skin told the story. The other day on Substack, a British beauty writer (sorry, forget the name) published a contrarian but convincing argument that those of us in northern climates do not need daily sunscreen. Her source was a skin scientist (as opposed to dermatologist) who is a firm advocate for hats. His argument gave me pause, but I am not about to change an affordable routine that appears to be working. For a good while,I bought retinol-based products from a dermatologist, but gave them up because of the price.
Rona, I wonder if that " skin scientist" sells hats? Anyway, you're smart, I think, not to vary from an affordable routine that works for you! xo
I wear sunscreen indoors.
My niece manages a medical spa so I have a routine with Skin medica that I love. I used Retin-A every other day and every four months micro-needling treatment. I'm 49 and happy with my skin appearance. I stay hydrated and don't consume much alcohol and I eat a whole food plant based diet.
I've heard good things about micro-needling...
I have found it helps for the inevitable sagging. For fine lines or sunspots I think chemical peels are better.
You’re so right.
If I am cocooning (seems like a lazy winter response) and don’t get my usual slate of fresh vegetables and fruits, I can really see it in my skin. I feel crappier too.
It’s VITALITY.
Phytochemicals that just can't be replicated in a lab!!
Just started following Val rn! I’m a few months shy of 56 and have had skin cancer more times than I can count including melanoma twice. I have a terrible scar on my face from a basal cell that I let go far too long. SUNSCREEN!!!! I use Elta MD tinted sunscreen in the AM. I rotate retinol/Vit C serum most nights or a deep moisturizing mask that I’ll leave on all night. I’ve been getting chemical peels since my 30’s and just recently incorporated micro needling. I rotate one of those treatments every 4 months. I have a few wrinkles but I’m told I look about 10 years younger than my age. The aggressive skin care treatments also slough off precancerous spots so that’s a win too.
Sari, I just finished ‘And You May Find Yourself” last night and I really enjoyed getting to know you better! 💜
So sorry to hear about the cancer. But happy to hear you got my book and enjoyed it! Thank you! <3
I love both micro-needling and chemical peels but I lay off them over the summer.
Thanks for all of this. I am curious about the chemical peels that you mentioned. What kind and who does the peel?
Hi there - I go to my dermatologist. Over the years I’ve had different peels; glycolic, lactic, etc.. now I get Jessner or rejuvenating peels that they offer. I’m sorry I don’t know really what that is. But I can say, the results are fantastic. The peels literally take years off my face. You’re going to look like a molting lizard for about a week but it’s worth it. The downtime is less with micro needling, about 3-4 days.
I live in Italy but my family is in California, where my niece works at a med spa so I get micro-needling or peels there so when I get back and people ask about my lizard skin I'm like "That California sun!! Oopsie!!"
Thank you!
I'm a few months shy of 35 years old, and I just started using retinol about six months ago (Marie Veronique gentle night serum), plus a face oil. So: a gentle cleanser and those two at night, just a rinse and sunscreen in the morning. But thanks to my mom (we are very fair and she has been drilling WEAR SUNSCREEN into me since my childhood in the 90s!), I have been on the sunscreen-every-day boat for at least a decade already. My go-to is the Elta MD tinted one, but I've also liked Laroche-Posay and Supergoop.
I'm a bit of a sun bug and loooove to lie out on the beach, but I live in the Northeast and it's not like I'm doing it every day/year-round, so I balance my joy in that with the risk. And of course I always wear sunscreen!! That said, my mom has had growths removed (in her 60s) so I expect that's my future as well; nothing beats genetics...
I can see my face aging, but I'm happy with looking my age, and I'm just counting on establishing this routine to pay off a couple decades down the road. The most annoying thing about my mid-30s skin is that I still get pimples and whiteheads! So rude — pop culture always taught me this was for teenagers.
As a retired esthetician (‘82-‘93) who specialized in acne, two thoughts:
Most adult acne comes from odd food sensitivities. Does your skin clear up when you have the flu and don’t eat? For me it’s the processed soy and peanuts that I had every bloody day as a kid. For others it’s dairy or some other perfectly delicious food. (Occasionally it’s something else, like a filthy shared phone at a store cosmetic counter, or one gal’s husband’s oily shoulder every night! Awwww)
Even at 70 I can still get a classic pimple if I eat those two things too frequently. Finally, indulging occasionally is OK. 👅
There’s information out there on how to do food sensitivity tests. They are tedious and time consuming, but for me the information was really priceless. Make choices from there.
One thing I also get real results from is using Neutrogena Clear Pore as a cleanser with a facial brush.
Benzoyl peroxide works by getting the dead cells and sebum that accumulate in the pores to dissolve that bit of ‘glue’ and slough off. The gentle brush is exfoliating, exposing younger and more hydrated cells which reflect more light. Start easy with BP products and NOT near eyes.
Now that my mature thin skin is not oily, I find the pores clog even more bc I am not constantly washing my face and they just build up. It’s It’s a different animal entirely.
THANK YOU TO ALL COMMENTSTERS! You inspire me to get with it again. Does anybody else just start slacking off from distractions or stress?
As a lifelong skincare product obsessive, you have hit me where I live. I, too, follow Val, though the no sunscreen thing sends me spinning. I had my first facial at the original Mario Badescu office in Manhattan at age 12 (blackheads were unacceptable in my mother's book), so I was indoctrinated early.
I highly recommend looking at Beauty Pie, a membership site that offers quality skincare at reduced prices (founded by entrepreneur extraordinaire Marcia Kilgore).
My morning routine now includes a custom compound serum that contains estradiol (my skin is soft and hydrated like when I was in my 20s), CoQ10, and Vit. C. If I feel dry, I use Beauty Pie's Healthy Skin daily moisturizer (no scent) and top that with Ulta UV Daily SPF 40. Alternatively, I'll use HaruHaru Wonder (SPF50).
On no or light makeup days, I wash at night with La Roche-Posay Toleraine Purifying Foaming Cleanser. If I have stubborn makeup on, I first use Beauty Pie's Hot Oil Double Cleansing Balm (you put the thick balm on dry skin, massage it in, wet it, and then clean it off with a wet face cloth). My skin is then clean and soft, and somehow, any blackheads are dissolved by the oils. It's kind of magic. I alternate between OTC retinol and a DNA serum with moisturizer on top. I am a big fan of Kate Sommerville's Peptide Cream, too.
I also like an annual laser treatment (IPL or Clear and Bright).
I respect those who can go with the flow and let nature take its course. I am not one of those gals.
Indra, just to be clear, I believe you SHOULD wear sunscreen, every day,, rain or shine. xo
To paraphrase a popular saying…there is no try, only do. ;-)